Kamikochi and Azusa Valley

kamikochi_valley_floorThe Azusa Valley runs the length of Kamikochi. Despite the 1,500m/5,000ft elevation of the valley floor, mild summer temperatures and abundant rain create a rich ecosystem. The Japanese Cardiocrinum lily, Cardiocrinum cordatum var.glehnii, is an impressive sight. Click on the image for a larger view.

In the early twentieth century, the valley was under threat from cattle pasturing in the summer. With the release of the highly successful novel Kappa by Ryunosuke Akutagawa, wherein the eponymous creatures where said to dwell in Kamikochi, and a visit by an imperial prince in 1927, the influx of tourists exploded. Ten years later, area was was given permanent protection in the formation of the Chubusangaku National Park.

Kamikochi and the Japanese Alps

kamikochi_panoramaKamikochi is located in the North Japanese Alps. This is the home of Japanese alpinism, a sport introduced to Japan at the end of the nineteenth century by the British missionary Walter Weston. Since then, the Japanese have organized their mountains with thousands of trails and an extensive mountain-hut system. Even the Imperial Hotel has a branch in the valley of Kamikochi (the bottom of the third frame from the right). Before the tourists and climbers, mountains were climbed for religious practice. You will find shrines at the top of many of the peaks.

Kamikochi is home to Japan’s third tallest peak Okuhodaka-dake (3,190m/10,470ft.), which can be seen on the right of the panorama. The active volcano Yake-dake (2,455m/8,050ft) can also be climbed if it is not venting gas—it last erupted in 1962 and can be seen in the third frame from the left. The trail on the ridge between Okuhodaka-dake and Yake-dake is known for being one of the most dangerous, and spectacular, routes in Kamikochi.

These photographs were taken from the lesser climbed peaks of Kasumisawa-dake (2,645m/8,680ft.)—K2, as it is known, is the dark peak on the left, with the peak of Kasumisawa-dake just beyond it; I am standing on K1. To say this place is off the beaten path would be an accurate description. Most of this trail is overgrown and can become very unclear in places. It was one of the most physically demanding day hikes I have ever had in Japan, mostly from the heat and humidity of the brush and the undulating trail, rather than from it being technically challenging. Naomi and I were the only ones on the peak that day; it is rare treat to be alone in Kamikochi. Click on the image for a larger view.

Tea Houses and Spring in Japan

japan_tea_houseWith cherry blossom season in Japan comes tea. The tea house has a long and important tradition. A place to quench your thirst and refresh your spirit.

A visit becomes a ritual for the senses—the bitterness of the tea, the sweetness of the cake, the warmth, texture, and color of the cup, the scent of the air, and the sounds in the world. A simple experience that brings calm and wonder. And all this for a bit money and a little of time. Click on the image for a larger view.

Hanami—Cherry Blossom Viewing

japan_hanami_1Every spring the Japanese celebrate the blossoming of their cherry trees. People flock to parks, gardens, temples, and shrines. They spread blankets and tarpaulins under the flowering branches and eat and drink and sing. Special tours go to places known for their expansive cherry tree orchards or for extremely old or grand specimens. What a wonderful thing to celebrate. Click on the image for a larger view.

Tsukiji Fish Market—Part 5

tsukiji_end_of_dayBy nine o’clock in the morning, the market is deserted. Everything has been washed down and left to dry. The only sign of life is an occasional cat scavenging for food. With the surrounding city coming to life with the business of the day, Tsukiji resembles an abandoned factory rather than a vibrant fish market. Click on the image for a larger view.

Tsukiji Fish Market—Part 4

tsukiji_marketTsukiji wholesale market, which trades in seafood and produce, covers about 22.5 hectares/56 acres with the fish market taking up the majority of the area. Built on reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay, much of the architecture dates back to its opening in 1935. The large, curved structure, which typifies the market, houses the intermediate seafood wholesalers. The auction areas are just outside that on the waterfront. Ongoing renovations have made the buildings a warren of passages and alcoves. Click on the image for a larger view.

Tsukiji Fish Market—Part 2

tsukiji_frozen_fishJust after midnight, trucks with frozen tuna roll into Tsukiji Fish Market. They are there for the early morning auctions. When the workers open the back doors of a truck, they pull the fish out onto a large tire on the floor to break its fall. The tuna is then dragged over the concrete like a huge ice cube and placed in orderly rows.

One night, I was standing on the wharf between a tuna truck and the water. The men unloaded some fish. They swung the doors shut. The truck slowly rolled forward as if it is was leaving. It stopped. Suddenly, the truck roared into reverse and shot backwards. The driver hit the brakes and the load of frozen fish in the back of the trailer hurtled toward the closed doors, hitting them like repeating cannon fire. The men swung the doors open and continued unloading the cargo. Although, when it happen, I was not thinking about what they were doing. I was wondering which was the better choice, getting run over by a fish truck or jumping into Tokyo Bay. Click on the image for a larger view.